Tower of Power!!!

Everything Blichmann shipped me was great. They just didn’t ship me everything. My Tower of Power was missing the tower. I was only shipped the “of Power”. The day before I went out of town for Christmas was the day it showed up, of course. I put her together yesterday. Fairly straight forward, but it took about 5 hours. Ain’t she purdy? Can’t wait to fire it up.

Fermentation Chamber #1

I’ve decided that the way to go with a 1 barrel system is versatility. I want to be able to break up batches into 6 five gallon fermentations and try out broadly different techniques and ingredients post boil. I’ve almost finished a ferment chamber for 2 one barrel fermentors. Going with the Blichmann 27 gal fermentors (both with the 42 gal extensions), and using a single fermentation chamber for 2 fermentors, means a single day’s work can yield the following results:

Higher volume, all one recipe. Double batching equals 2 full barrels, and they both will ferment at the same temperature.

Medium volume, minor experimentation. One barrel batch, making 2 half barrels, perhaps making slight adjustments to one with the idea that I might notice the difference, but others likely wouldn’t, making experimentation on the fly an option, without having to re-brand a beer. Or just re-brand it if it turns out considerably unique.

Medium volume, much experimentation. One barrel batch splitting to 6 five gallon fermentations, perhaps for broadly playing with dry hop techniques or yeast strains. This will keep things interesting for those that come in for tastings, because I’ll have one keg of each variety, and will therefore be swapping out often.

Low volume, wild experimentation. Pulling out the old equipment, and doing a single batch of 5 gallons, this method would be used only for brand new, questionable brews. In other words, it would be weird enough that I wouldn’t want to waste more than $20 trying it out, in case it totally sucked.

Anyhoot, here’s the build on the ferment chamber in pictures:

Starting the first chamber next to the brew area

Had to work with the existing landscape and use the funny little stepped wall to my advantage.

Removed the door from a little fridge that someone gave to me and hacked the front lip off so that it would fit tight to the side of the chamber. This will provide cooling for the chamber.

Framed in an opening for the cooler.

On to insulation and wall coverings.

Then doors…

Doors hung.

Instead of a door handle, I used a barn door style hooks and bar, which should do a good (and cheap) job of sealing the doors tightly. The right door has a small vertical strip that over laps the left when closed, and pushes on the middle of the 2×4’s back. This, in turn, creates a wedge, sealing up amazingly well. It just needs weather stripping, paint, and a temperature controller!

Small victory today

For hunters and homebrewers, a regular old refrigerator just won’t cut it on volume. They need a small room size to store five deer carcasses, or the last 8 brews in corny kegs, but who wants to shell out a few grand for a proper walk in cooler?

Enter, the $300 Coolbot! It tricks a regular AC window unit into cooling a space down to 40 degrees or lower. It is so simple, I could cry. It has 3 probes that come off the main body. One senses the room temperature. One senses the temperature of the cooling fins in the AC. The last one is a tiny little heater, which gets attached to the AC unit’s original fin temperature sensor. By heating the sensor, the AC unit can be tricked into not turning off, because it thinks it’s work isn’t done. Typically this wouldn’t work because the fins would ice up into a solid block. They aren’t engineered to do this amount of cooling. What’s so awesome about the Coolbot is that it also runs a defrost cycle that keeps the AC humming along.

There are a few caveats. It doesn’t work on all models, portable units, or non-digital control models, but there are a plethora of cheap to free units on Craigslist. The one I picked up today fell out of a second story window and sounded horrible, so they were giving it away. I took them on their word that it still worked because it was free and I only had to drive over to West Seattle for it. When I opened it up, I found the noise was coming from a piece of duct tape that was touching the fan blade. I bent it over and it ran silently. Boom. See that goofy repair at the top there? That’s the first time I’ve  seen duct tape be the problem instead of the solution.

Plugged in the Coolbot:

and it immediately started cooling. So rad.

So now I just have to cut a vent hole in the roof and install it, double insulate the walls and the floor, add an exhaust duct for the AC and slap it in place. Well, hanging the door is going to be tricky, but I’m almost there.

The web of dependent details, with plenty of pictures

So you want to put a brewery indoors. The city wants to know how you want to do this. Fine, and that’s not really a bad thing. You will be either burning natural gas and creating carbon monoxide, or sticking electrical heating elements into water, after all. It seems like a good thing that someone who knows how these things should go together would sign off on your plans. The problem becomes creating a hierarchy of decisions that need to be made, while thinking far enough down the road that you won’t have to do it again anytime soon.

I want to brew in 1 barrel batches. I can get 6 corny kegs out of a barrel, and it makes accounting for things easy, being a nice round number. The problem with 1 barrel (or 1 bbl) systems is that it sits right between fancy home brewer (15 gal/1/2 bbl) and low-end professional territory (3-5 bbl). There aren’t a lot of brew setups in this range. Most people just weld their own stands and wire their own control panels. I have a few specialized skills and I learn fast, but I don’t weld, and I don’t fuss with electricity when it needs to plug into a wall. So what are my options?


First, gas fired boilers,

or electric brewery?

I really love the automatic, precise (and silent) nature of electric brewing. Set your strike temp and push go on the pump. Not babysitting a thermometer sounds like it would make brewing for money infinitely more enjoyable. Plus, no CO to worry about, only steam, so venting wouldn’t be a life or death matter, but it is expensive (to the tune of $8k-$10k) if you aren’t going to make everything yourself. Normally I don’t mind learning a new trade and saving a bunch of cash, but I don’t have that kind of time right now.
So gas it is! And what size can I get away with? While space is an issue, the most important factor is gonna be venting deadly gases. I was thinking that the existing wall vent fan in the space would be strong enough to pull CO fumes through the hood and safely outside, but it turns out it isn’t even close at about 700 CFMs (or Cubic Feet per Minute). I need something along the lines of about 2000 CFMs to do the job. The hood I bought for $125 off of Craigslist has a 16″ hole for ducting, and the fan on the wall is only 10″. Looks like kick ass fans are only about $150-$200, so I can just pull the old fan and widen the hole, allowing for enough airflow to guarantee I can use Blichmann’s high performance 72,000 BTU burners. They are small (not really meant for anything over a 20 gal batch), but efficient, which means less CO. I’m not positive yet, but I think a step up to 200,000 BTU banjo burners (necessary for a 1 bbl batch) would be too much.
I can automate things with electric burner controllers, but that notches the price tag up again. The available options for a brew stand with gas burners is a fairly short list. You have single tier (or hybrid two tier) designs that require pumps to move fluids from pot to pot, and generally cost $2k-$4k for one that someone else welded together for you:

And you have “gravity fed” systems, like the Blichmann Top Tier, which goes for about $600, and requires magical gravity forces to move the goods from tier to tier. For the record, this is the only piece of equipment that Blichmann (Blingmann) makes that will instantly save you money:

My biggest problem is space. The hood has a footprint of 7’x3.5′, which would barely fit a single tier setup, if it was 1/2bbl. If I hang it with enough clearance for proper ductwork overhead, I can’t use the Top Tier unless I bury the top shelf up inside the hood. The answer came in a hybrid of the two that should leave me some flexibility for the future, and the pots below eye level. Using a Top Tier, I can take advantage of it’s modular design to put two tiers at the same height and use a pump for that transfer. Small footprint, and not too tall, kind of like this guy’s setup:

The only problem with the Blichmann Top Tier is that you can’t fit their 55 gal pot on the stand, so you are limited to what you can brew on the next size down (30 gal), which maxes you out around 20 gal of finished product, or 4 corny kegs at a time. Not horrible, but certainly not a cash cow of a setup. The good news is, for an extra $700, you can get this bad boy, allowing automation of your burners and pumps, letting you clean/sanitize, take inventory, or do data entry while you brew, without constantly being paranoid that you are about to boil over or lose your mash temp.

So that’s the plan I’m settling on. I should be able to get a deal straight from Blichmann (they offer a deal to breweries) and hopefully get kettles, burners, stand, pumps, and automation for under $3k and be off to the races with minimal reworking of the existing space.

Gray might be an overreaction to the yellow, but I’m going for “beer laboratory” vibe here. Besides, the fluorescent lights are intense enough to handle such an overstatedly Seattle color.
Grain room shelves painted, and stank-free!

Opening walls and prepping the stinky room

There was no plumbing on the north wall, where there was an existing fan, so I had to get it piped in from upstairs. The shortest and cheapest source was directly overhead where I wanted to put the sanitation area, right next to the brewing area. In order to cut down on plumber expenses, I opened the wall up to see if I could find the pipes and prep them for cutting and soldering. I found a little friend in the wall, with some buddies – a few slugs living in rain water soaked insulation behind plastic sheeting, behind drywall. Awesome.

 I gave up and attacked the nasty carpet in the future grain storage and mill room. This conjured intense memories of ripping out carpet in a nasty house in Rancho Bernardo (north San Diego) when my dad took on a fixer in my younger years. There is no inherent reward in this kind of work, unless you are fortunate enough to harbor an intense masochistic streak.

 The day didn’t stop until the smell was coated with primer. Paint never smelled so good:

 The only remedy to painful work is a little self medication:


The space so far.

I meant to start blogging about the misadventures of starting a nano (pico? femto?) brewery back when I first signed a lease on the new space, but I’ve been so distracted by the process … until now. This, my friends, is what the space looked like on the day I signed the lease. It is worth noting that it smelled so bad that nobody wanted to stay in the space for more than a minute or two. The previous tenant used the side room as a kitchen, but there was no vent, it was carpeted, and they clearly didn’t clean very often. Barf.


Such a cheery color, really: 



The color-match from Lowe’s must have been fantastic, because I totally can’t tell where the touch-ups are:



Glorious combo – yellow and brown. So primal. So basic. So expulsive.

 


The first equipment purchase – a couple stainless steel prep tables. Also, Moose:



Shelves full of food grime, refrigerator full of mold: